Brake misery :-(

Figure out maintenance issues and discuss modifications
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robber57
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Re: Brake misery :-(

Post by robber57 » Thu Oct 13, 2016 6:22 am

Be carefull with that impact, those pins are very soft steel and the inner hex is rounded very quickly.
Carefully feel if it wil go with a wrench and if not at least heat it up with a electric paint heater gun ( what you call this?), 90-100 celcius should be no problem for the seals and will expand the alu hopefully enough to loosen it.

You could also drill the caliper out to 1/4 but i guess you then will also have to make the holes in the pad a bit bigger to 1/4.
Failure is not an option, it comes bundled with the package.

313Matt
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Re: Brake misery :-(

Post by 313Matt » Thu Oct 13, 2016 7:25 am

I would call it a heat gun.

Interesting - I have a heat gun, but hand't considered it for this application. Normally I use a propane torch, also known as "the blue-tipped wrench." I wouldn't want to use it here as the fluid and seals are prone to heat damage.

Thanks.
Matt
2010 SH150i US model

313Matt
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Re: Brake misery :-(

Post by 313Matt » Mon Oct 24, 2016 9:57 am

robber57 wrote:For the pins i now use long stainless 6mm metric allen bolts with a stainless locknut, the allen head falls exactly in the recess, the locknuts have to be replaced every time you replce the pads, plastic caged locknuts are for ONE TIME USE ONLY.
Ok, so I did the job this weekend. Luckily my pad carrier bolts came out easily. Not even heat was needed. But I am confused as to how you replaced these with allen bolts. Do yous look like this? (Michigan fall colors included free of charge.)

Image2016-10-22_171508_SH_capiler_bolts by mattquam, on Flickr
Matt
2010 SH150i US model

ngocdb
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Re: Brake misery :-(

Post by ngocdb » Mon Jul 24, 2017 7:09 pm

Dear Pro .
I have SH150i model 2017 CBS version
Now I want install ABS brake, I prepared ABS modulator, Sensor, Cal brake, Ring pulser…
I have not ABS wiring diagram, pls share to me
Thank so much

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robber57
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Re: Brake misery :-(

Post by robber57 » Tue Jul 25, 2017 1:52 pm

Sorry cannot help you , dont have a new abs model service manual.

On the bolts: i see i forgot a post in juli 2016, my bad.

The bolts i use are M6 (metric) stainless A2 quality, length i have to guess, somewhere around 90 mm? ,after neccesary cutting they will become shorter.

My "new" sh150 still has the original bolts and the old one, the wreck, with the stainless bolts is still lying broken up in 3 chunks on a pallet in my warehouse high up near the ceiling,up till now i havent had the stomach to face it :|

beware that the bolt should not be "full threaded" but has the first 60 mm or so no thread(blank rod) so the brake pads can slide easily and are not on the threaded part, like these:
Image
Image

thats "din norm" 912, as you can see a m6 allen bolt always has a threaded end of 24 mm.
The bolt should have a sufficient length of plain rod and only 10 mm thread, so you will need to buy a longer bolt and cut a small piece of the threaded end.
The allen head of a M6 bolt fits exactly in the reces in the caliper ( i cannot remember having to drill out the caliper)and fills it completly so you dont use the tiny flat lock screws anymore, dont over tighten the bolt als you will crunch the caliper, two fingers is enough and only use a din980 style lock nut or a nyloc locknut but only once, dont re-use nyloc nuts.
If you are having trouble finding locknuts you could also take even longer bolts and cut all the thread off, drill a 2 mm hole in the pin and use steel lock wire to lock the two pins together , racing style 8-)

You could use inch size 1/4 but that wont fit as this will be 6.3 mm and the hole is 6 mm, i guess you could drill out the caliper to 1/4 but you would also need to make the holes in the brakepad to 1/4.
Failure is not an option, it comes bundled with the package.

SH125Paul
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Re: Brake misery :-(

Post by SH125Paul » Wed Jul 26, 2017 3:11 am

Just reading this topic...
Worth a note to say - looking at the first pic / exploded diagram- remove the Brake Pad Holding Pin Caps (12) with a good fitting screw driver - i think the head is slotted... and then slacken off Brake Pad Pins (13) BEFORE undoing / removing the caliper mounting bolts (14)
That way the caliper is held firm to the fork and you are less likely to round off the heads of the brake pad pins...

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