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 Post subject: Changing variorollers
PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 5:22 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 10, 2010 9:24 am
Posts: 990
Location: Heerhugowaard,Holland
Please do not post in this topic, when it is finished i will lock the topic

General:
The Honda is a Japanese design and so ALL fasteners are METRIC in thread size and in the size tool you will need to remove or assemble them.
The only exception is the sparkplug which has a imperial size hex ( 5/8 if i remember correctly), it anyhow needs a special spark plug wrench with a rubber inside.
If an imperial tool fits a bolt/nut/socket screw it is accidental and the fit will not be optimal and you will risk damaging the bolt/nut, example: a 9/16 spanner will fit on a 14 mm hex bolt as 9/16 equals 14.3 mm but the fit will be loose and you will damage the head of the bolt.
GET the proper tools for the job,dont take shortcuts as the damage done will cost more to repair then the proper tools would have cost.
Most used sizes on the SH:
hex bolts: 8-12-14-15-17-19 mm
socket hex/allen: 4-5-6-8 mm
Screws are Philips and not pozidriv like used on wood screws, see the difference,left is Philips,right is pozidriv, a pozidriv screwdriver will damage a philips screw,ALL screws on the SH are Philips, in a few cases you may find a (small)Philips no 1

To make this story completely correct:Actually all screws are JIS a japanese standard and as screwdrivers fore these are very difficult to find a Philips is the next best thing, even so; if the philips doesn't have a good fit you can grind away the top of the screwdriver a little bit so it becomes more blunt,usually that will solve the problem, if not you may want to look at a different brand/type as apperently not all philips are the same and also not all screws are the same.
And of course there is the bad quality but correct sized screwdriver in the toolkit which comes with your SH.
More on this: JIS vs Philips
Attachment:
phillips-pozidriv-small.jpg

Note the extra spline the pozidrive has.
Attachment:
philips-pozi driver.jpg


In stead of buying one big "complete" kit of metric tools of questionable quality which also will include a lot of stuff you may never use you may want to go for just buying the sizes and types you need of a respectable high quality brand, doing that you may spend the same amount money but then have good quality tools that will last a lifetime and dont damage the fasteners.
A good tool shop will sell any key/wrench/socket/allen key separately and/or can order them for you.


Attachment:
vario exploded.jpg


With a small 8 mm wrench and patience you can (just) get the front bolt out of the variofilter housing without having to dismantle every piece of plastic on the bike.
You will probably need nose-pliers/tweezers to put the bolt back or a girlfriend with very slender fingers ;)
When taking the filter housing of beware not to loose the o-ring and if lost do not replace it by a standard/normal o-ring as it is a hollow and very soft o-ring, if lost you will have to order a original one.
Attachment:
image001.jpg

That's what you see once the lid comes of,left is the vario driver,right is the driven vario/clutch
Attachment:
image003.jpg

Squeeze the belt together like this as much as you can so the belt will dig in the rear spring tensioned vario and will become "loose".
Attachment:
image005.jpg

The tool you need to hold the vario.
Attachment:
image007.jpg

Attachment:
image009.jpg

You can make the tool yourself cheaply and just as efficient.
The two 1/4"/6mm bolts fit exactly in the two holes in the vario.
Image

Some pictures of the tool nicely by member breaknwind.
Please notice the difference in length of the 2 "pins" on the bolts to accommodate for the thickness of the steel,alternatively also a "z bend" could be made in one of the strips of metal.

Image
Image

Loosening the varionut, it can be quite stuck the first time you loosen it, support your socket wrench like this and it will be no problem.
Attachment:
image011.jpg

The front finned vario part taken of, you can leave the belt on the rear driven vario, there is no need to completely remove it, if you do remove the belt completely please observe the direction how it is mounted, <--- or ---> according to the lettering on it ,these belts are not directional but once mounted and used you have to put it back the way it came of.
Attachment:
image012.jpg

Get your fingers behind the vario to support it when sliding it of the crankshaft, this will prevent the vario falling apart in all bits and pieces.
Attachment:
image013.jpg

Attachment:
image014.jpg

Vario with ramp plate.
Attachment:
image017.jpg

Ramp plate removed, also notice the small plastic guides still attached to the ramp plate,dont loose these they easily fall of.
Attachment:
image018.jpg

New rollers, notice these have a front/back side but this is not always,some brands are equal on both sides
Attachment:
image019.jpg

Observe the packaging, it will tell you if the rollers have a front/back side and how to install, original rollers are equal on both sides and can be mounted either way.
Attachment:
image019b.jpg

Use a torque wrench to tighten the varionut and support you torque wrench like this with a block of wood/bricks/whatever.( the metal block in the picture is something i just had lying in a corner, its a pneumatic cylinder head)
The correct torque is: 59 NM or 44 lbs-ft
Attachment:
image022.jpg


When putting it all back together some tips:
The original vario+rollers+guide bush is NOT grease/oil lubricated nor should you try to lubricate it, the grease/oil will get on the belt and it will slip/overheat, so clean everything well with a solvent before you put it back, dont let the vario soak in solvent for hours, the metal guide bush inside the vario is a dry lubricant (graphite) impregnated sintered iron -if left to long in a solvent bath the dry lubrication will wash out.

1 drop of engine oil on the nut/thread is needed to lubricate and ensure correct tightening torque.

The rubber gasket on the vario-lid is a pain if you want to put the lid back as it will fall of over and over again.
A few TINY drops of cyanocrylate (super glue) will bond it to the lid and keep it in place wile mounting the lid, DONT overdo the glue, at some point in time this gasket will have to be replaced.

As i experienced: the oil seal BEHIND the vario can be easily knocked inwards or skew/oblique after which it will develop leaking, be careful not to touch the seal with any tools or press it with you fingers.
viewtopic.php?f=12&p=5416#p5416
Image

After assembly of everything the belt will still be slack, this is no problem, after starting the engine gently rev it for a few times and the slack will disappear.


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