My first oil change.

IaScoot · Post by **IaScoot** » Mon Jan 24, 2011 1:07 pm

Thanks everyone for the heads up on the oil change problems. I have a bad back so I purchased a motorcycle table lift. I can put the scooter on it and I do not have to use the center stand as the lift has a front wheel anchor. I then use a tie down strap on each side of the handle bar and the bike will stay upright while I am working on it. The table lift has been great for working on my motorcycles and scooters, especially for the detail and wax jobs.

jdmaysjr · Post by **jdmaysjr** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 2:58 pm

I bought a flexible funnel that looks like it'll help make oil changes cleaner. I orded it online from Griot's Garage, http://www.griotsgarage.com. Here are some photos- http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/GriotsG ... 50?$detail$

tpi · Post by **tpi** » Sat Apr 30, 2011 6:21 pm

I'm looking at mine and seeing potential mess. Liked reading some of the ideas listed above.

I'm thinking a couple others-
1. If the screen is staying clean, extract the oil using vacuum or siphon from the dipstick hole as is
practice with boats and some cars.

2. Break the drain plug loose (barely) while solidly on stand then lean the bike against something and drain oil.

Post by **robber57** » Sun May 01, 2011 4:15 am

A follow up on the plan i had to put a small 1/8 ball valve in the drain plug;

kraantje.jpg

After i received the spare drain plug i backed out on the plan, with the modification done the ball valve was protruding quite a bit underneath the crankcase, it became the lowest point under the crankcase.
That opened a dangerous possibility i did not think of before; when you go on a curb or sidewalk the ball valve can easily be knocked off.
The drain plug is a light weight aluminium part which can easily be broken and the ball valve and knee are made of brass, not "sturdy" at all, at least not enough to withstand a knock at the curb.
If you look at the underside of the engine you also might notice a thick aluminium ridge in front of the drainplug, its there to protect the drainplug in such an event which leads to the assumption that honda didnt put it there for no reason, apparently this sometimes may/can happen.

So i went in between; i made a 1/8" thread in the drain plug a put a 1/8 brass seal cap in it, it has an o-ring and allen key hole so is as flat as can be

plug.jpg

Now at oil change i can leave the original plug and mesh filter but still can easily drain out the oil without having the spring and filter mess.
Its still not ideal but its the best i could do.

If you want to do this mod you have to use a cap with a o-ring seal and not the one with a copper or aluminium washer, the original drainplug is made of a very brittle aluminium and trying to seal a copper washer on it you will ruin the thread you made in it.

SHiHondarider · Post by **SHiHondarider** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:53 pm

Elvis wrote:Hey fellow SHcooters,

I did my first oil change a couple days ago. It's due at 600 miles. Here's the notes I wrote to myself in my maintenance log:

Oil change: Use a 17mm socket to loosen the drain plug, which is located under the oil filler / dipstick. IMPORTANT: Note that there is a spring and oil strainer above the wide drain plug, so when you loosen it, everything will want to jump down, along with a gush of oil. The oil is very hard to catch in my oil drain pan, because the kickstand is right where the oil pan should be. (You may want to figure out some system for keeping the bike upright without using the kickstand.)

The oil strainer looked clean, nothing there.

Get some spare O rings for the drain plug, to have on hand in case it goes bad. Refill with a quart.

I used Valvoline 10w30 synthetic. (5 quart jug at Walmart for $15!)

Happy SHcooting!

You should never use "automotive oil" for that Honda! It's not good for transmission. I always use Mobil 1 4T 10-40 motorcycle oil. It's worth it, look how much that Honda cost! It's not the same as the Mobil 1 car oil.

bigbird · Post by **bigbird** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 3:35 pm

SHiHondarider wrote: You should never use "automotive oil" for that Honda! It's not good for transmission..

Your SH150i transmission does not have any oil in it.
It is a dry Continously Variable Transmission.

The reason Honda specifies a JASO MA motorcycle oil is to protect the high rpm valve train with additional additives that are not found in automotive energy conserving oils.

SHiHondarider · Post by **SHiHondarider** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 8:09 pm

bigbird wrote:
SHiHondarider wrote: You should never use "automotive oil" for that Honda! It's not good for transmission..
Your SH150i transmission does not have any oil in it.
It is a dry Continously Variable Transmission.

The reason Honda specifies a JASO MA motorcycle oil is to protect the high rpm valve train with additional additives that are not found in automotive energy conserving oils.

I'm not sure you know what I mean. The engine oil does effect the transmission, gears sharing the oil that drive the belt. If you use bad oil, it CAN damage the Shi transmission, ask any Honda repair shop. I'm not saying the the dry belt IS soaked in oil. The JASO MA oil you are referring to is correct. Mobil 1 4t exceeds that regarding high RPM-high heat, this IS racing oil. Do a search on it, this is outstanding oil. I'm sticking with Mobil 1.

bigbird · Post by **bigbird** » Mon Apr 30, 2012 7:33 am

SHiHondarider wrote: I'm not sure you know what I mean. The engine oil does effect the transmission, gears sharing the oil that drive the belt. If you use bad oil, it CAN damage the Shi transmission, ask any Honda repair shop.

I'm not sure you know how a CVT operates. The engine oil has NOTHING to do with the transmission. The transmission is DRY. There are no gears in the transmission that drive the belt. The front variator attaches directly to the crankshaft. NO GEARS!
You are referring to "bad oil" damaging gears and the clutch in motorcycles that have wet clutches, not CVT's.
My suggestion, buy a service manual for your SH150i and read it.

SHiHondarider · Post by **SHiHondarider** » Mon Apr 30, 2012 9:38 am

bigbird wrote:
SHiHondarider wrote: I'm not sure you know what I mean. The engine oil does effect the transmission, gears sharing the oil that drive the belt. If you use bad oil, it CAN damage the Shi transmission, ask any Honda repair shop.
I'm not sure you know how a CVT operates. The engine oil has NOTHING to do with the transmission. The transmission is DRY. There are no gears in the transmission that drive the belt. The front variator attaches directly to the crankshaft. NO GEARS!
You are referring to "bad oil" damaging gears and the clutch in motorcycles that have wet clutches, not CVT's.
My suggestion, buy a service manual for your SH150i and read it.

I have a service manual, thanks bigbird-bought one almost two years ago. I don't pretend to know everything, because I don't. I will agree to disagree, Honda says the wrong oil or insufficient oil can cause serious damage to transmission or engine. I'll go with Honda's advice-becuase it's Honda, even I believe your explanation is excellent. thanks for the info.

SHiHondarider · Post by **SHiHondarider** » Mon Apr 30, 2012 10:42 am

bigbird wrote:
SHiHondarider wrote: I'm not sure you know what I mean. The engine oil does effect the transmission, gears sharing the oil that drive the belt. If you use bad oil, it CAN damage the Shi transmission, ask any Honda repair shop.
I'm not sure you know how a CVT operates. The engine oil has NOTHING to do with the transmission. The transmission is DRY. There are no gears in the transmission that drive the belt. The front variator attaches directly to the crankshaft. NO GEARS!
You are referring to "bad oil" damaging gears and the clutch in motorcycles that have wet clutches, not CVT's.
My suggestion, buy a service manual for your SH150i and read it.

Bigbird, you are the moderator...well..I would say your knowledge must be very good regarding the shi150. I just posted what I heard, that's all. thanks again, nice forum here!

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My first oil change.

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