ECU overheating?

[TommyXP]

Work of Art!

[madness]

Thanks!
Sorry, i don't have enough time to make everything at once, so, i'll post new photos as process goes.

[madness]

Hi guys!
Some kind of flu sent me to bed for almost two weeks, so, i didn't do much.
Here are some new photos.

[TommyXP]

A fine demonstration of but one of Life's little miracles.....
.....Through the creative process, to have an 'idea' that resides in one dimension and to go about bringing it forth into this dimension, to me, is nothing short of Magic and Alchemy, and I see it in your work of Art.....

I like your 'desk' as it reminds me of the one I toil at amidst ancient texts, tools and a bottle of wine.

...Greek axiom inscribed in Apollo’s temple at Delphi; Gnothi seauton: “Know thyself.”

[madness]

Creative process is line, separating me from becoming an alcoholic
All my life i create something... Smart house, hydroponics, security systems, local tv networks, etc... Life is not too interesting without miracles

My "desk" ))))) it is a server room in organisation i work for. A place, where those miracles appear...

Here some fresh photos. Kind of Update.

[madness]

I'm damned.
All i've done was useless. Air-flows are separated in current setup: one goes to engine, another goes to ECU and filter.... and ECU still gets very hot after 10 minutes of riding.
How i can not to drink if such things happen? I'll go and take a liter... Die, my mind!

P.S. Head has been tighten today up to ~28Nm, no more coolant leak, no engine overheating.
P.P.S. 500cc inside. will try to feed ECU directly from batterey tomorrow to avoid bad contacts. with disconnected ect and o2 sensors, just for case.

[waspmike]

You have to decide if the heat is coming from the electronics or is being radiated by the engine.

If the heat is coming from the electronics then you need to add a heat sink



But as no one else has reported this problem maybe the heat is being radiated by the engine and transferred to the "ECU". Flowing air alone will not take away radiated heat.

In which case to need to insulate the "ECU" from the radiated heat from the engine. If there is space you need a separate piece of metal between the two. Or add some insulating material like foam/ old piece of carpet to the surface of the cover.

Land Rover used to add a separate metal sheet (heat shield) to keep the roof in the shade and the air passing between the two also keeps the roof cooler.



Some cars have heat shields around the exhaust.



Given your creative talents use whichever shielding method you like. You may decide to make a really fancy one?

[madness]

I was thinking, engine irradiation is reason of ECU overheat. All this was done to avoid it. Now i'm almost sure, reason is in electrics.

Radiator and fan from PC's processor may be a temporary solution, but this will not solve a problem. ECU must not heat at all, TommyXP has checked temperature of his ECU after riding and it wasn't even close to "hot", just a little "warm".

Here are photos of full separation ECU and air filter from engine.

[TommyXP]

Wondering about if you re-wired the "Bank angle sensor"?
Some have added resistors some not.....Thinking: low voltage increases current flow in some cases, and high voltage most definitely will, thus creating the heat. Picking at straws......

Example/Similar?
For the last 7 years I have been harvesting/utilizing dead Elm tree's from the extensive corporate property 'out-back' (Sherwood Forest!) at the rate of 10 face-cords a year. I use a good electric chainsaw (quiet) and run a 150 - 300 ft 'extension-cord'. I make up the extension cord thus: first 50' large 10ga wire, next 100' is 12ga wire and last ~150' is 14ga and the saw draws +5amps.......There is a definite voltage drop across the entire length of cord and this is lessened by large wire sizes....The Reason: lower voltage at the cord end results in the saw drawing higher current (heating up) and burning out the brushes quickly.......

I'd take the time to check each individual wire and be assured that all is correct before you end up riding a naked frame on two wheels in a futile attempt to cool a glowing red ICU that you could cook your hot dog on.....

[madness]

I understand, what you mean. Agree.

Wire-by-wire check is only thing left... I'll start from wires, used by ECU to supply "negative" to other devices, like coil, injector, pump relay, fan relay (now disconnected) and IAC (now disconnected)

I.e. connections, which may create LOAD on ECU.

But about BAS short connection... This sensor doesn't connect to ECU any way in 2006 model (see attached image), so, using resistors is not necessary. It has 2 incoming wires - Green and Black (directly connected to power system, and 1 outgoing - Red/Orange. It just connects (or not connects) Green to Red/Orange, supplying (or not) "negative" directly to Engine Stop Relay, which supply (or not) "positive" to whole system BEFORE ECU. By the way, this relay must be checked too...