SHcooter.com

Hi guys, just wanted to get some help with gear/final drive oil change. I'm uploading a picture and will attempt to descripe it so that you know what I'm talking about,

my dealer here in Vienna is making me jump hoops for the service manual, so I decided not to wait and just go ahead with your help.

I think I know how to change the motor oil (as it's pretty self-explanatory) but my problem is with the gear oil or the final drive oil (which ever it is?) I did watch a video on youtube but the model year of that bike is different to mine and it looks different to mine as well (the setup of the gear oil bolts).

so here goes...

If you guys would like to I can also post a picture of the motor oil drain bolt and filter/O-ring bolt.
No one here has (to my knowledge) done so. Could be useful for those of us who have the newer models and can not get help from youtube because all the oil changes there are on older and slightly different in setup (seemingly to the lay-person, me included).

cheers and look forward to the reply

So I just went ahead and changes the gear oil withou help, pufffff it was no easy task because I hand no syringe to squirt the oil in the fill hole, so I made a lot of mess, but lesson learned, now I have the syringe.

I know that your not supposed to change the final drive/gear oil but every 2 years, but I wanted to learn how to do it so I went ahead and learned a lot by my foolish beginner mistakes, the only problem I have is this.

I did put 1 liter of engine oil in stead of 0.9 liters and the dip stick did indeed show that I had more than max, how bad is that? and should I drain a little bit off oil from the engine to fix it?

There are 'glitches' within this site and this post was one of them. I never saw this post until today and am sorry for the feeling induced by a lack of response......
I have done the gear oil many times and it isn't difficult or messy. Get the lube in the properly shaped bottle with a 'nipple' at the top. After draining and replacing the plug/bolt, just put the nipple in the upper 'fill' hole and start squeezing out a little at a time while rocking the rear wheel back and forth. When oil starts backing-up out of the hole, put the plug back in.
No extreme measuring necessary IMHO....
Engine oil is far more critical and should NOT be over done.
Just remove a little. Raise the front wheel and use your syringe to take a little out......

gigglefeet wrote:.
I did put 1 liter of engine oil in stead of 0.9 liters and the dip stick did indeed show that I had more than max, how bad is that? and should I drain a little bit off oil from the engine to fix it?

YES

@TommyXP

Could you tell me which bolts you would unscreew? and in which one of them then would you put the oil in, because I unscreewed the top one the bottom one and the left on of the two in the middle, I figured that the top one was to fill the bottom one was the drain and the middle one (the one on the left side of the two in the middle) was the check bolt. But it turned out the top one was impossible to use as the fill hole all the oil just came back.

This gave me a little reason to panic as I was at a "rent a garage time" garage and It looked like I would not be able to get back home from there

But I had to use (what I thought to be the check bolt) to refill.

So if you or someone could tell me how it is supposed to be I would be most happy

happy scooting

Looking at your picture I finally realized that there is a major difference between the 2010SH and the 2015SH as to the location of the gear oil fill hole and the configuration of the entire gear case.
The 'drain' hole (at the very bottom) is the same but the 'fill' hole has vanished. My 'guess' would be the inner (higher) of the two large bolts would be the fill (it is much more obvious on the 2010), but I have my doubts.

Due to this uncertainty I advise further research on your part or hopefully somebody else with a 2015 will 'chime-in' and share their experience and enlighten us all.
Until then, I am sorry and perfectly useless in the matter other than 'guessing'.
Also, when eventually filling, be sure to rock the rear wheel back-and-forth while re-filling...

TommyXP wrote:Looking at your picture I finally realized that there is a major difference between the 2010SH and the 2015SH as to the location of the gear oil fill hole and the configuration of the entire gear case.
The 'drain' hole (at the very bottom) is the same but the 'fill' hole has vanished. My 'guess' would be the inner (higher) of the two large bolts would be the fill (it is much more obvious on the 2010), but I have my doubts.

Due to this uncertainty I advise further research on your part or hopefully somebody else with a 2015 will 'chime-in' and share their experience and enlighten us all.
Until then, I am sorry and perfectly useless in the matter other than 'guessing'.
Also, when eventually filling, be sure to rock the rear wheel back-and-forth while re-filling...

hello all

I changed gear oil on my new sh125i 2013 esp model and yes like tommy says its the inner bolt for filling and lower bolt to drain (on the picture above


you may see the copper crush washer on both bolts

The inner higher bolt under the web of the casing is thd fill hole...
If you look carefully the drain and fill bolts both have sealing washers...
The drain bolt is still a casing bolt, the fill is just a short bolt...
Changed mine the other day from new at 600 mile - wonder why the first service doesnt change the Tx oil?
Seen posts quoting EP90 gear oil or 10x30 engine oil...
Here in the UK Halfords do a 10w40 semi synth especially for bike and scooter gearbox or Tx... which i use in my Yam XMax 400...
So went with that... 1.2lt - the new handbook states qty, but not type...
Real hard tracking down a manual in thd UK, honda provide the service details to the dealer on line by a protected password site...
Got some Castrol 10w30 fully synthetic to do both engine and Tx at 2500 miles