No Start After Rain or Wash

[2013SH150i]

Twice, my trusty SH150i has failed to start right up after it got wet.
First time at the car/bike wash and the second time after a light rain.
Both times, I waited a few minutes and it started.

Where is my problem I'm wondering?

[Mikey]

That's a tough one. You might try to get a specific area of your scooter wet to try to isolate it. Like just the battery area or the ignition.

[TommyXP]

Air filter/air density?????? Grabbing at straws here.....
I use a K & N air filter which could be considered 'wet' (oil) and 'maybe' a dry paper filter would be more likely to 'absorb' moisture in the air and diminish/constrict flow. Don't really know; as not being a 'mechanic' but a Space-Time Reference Engineer.......

I quit cleaning the SH with anything but a rag on occasion. Only the windscreen gets constant attention using "Plexus" plastic cleaner.

Seen too many people using hoses and pressure-washers(!) spraying in places that aren't designed or intended to 'see' those angles or velocities of H²O, especially electrics and bearings......

I continue to be impressed with the SH when considering that 'problems' like this is all that trickles through this Forum. Imagine all the care-free miles being driven!
Check out the other scooter forums in the event that you have been having too many sweet-Dreams lately........

[waspmike]

The words "Fails to start" is not very specific.

Starter doesn't turn when I press the button?

Engine turns over on the starter but does not actually start?

You need to d just a little bit of diagnostics and tell us exactly what does or doesn't happen.

[2013SH150i]

Yesterday the SH started as usual, ran for 2 seconds, then suddenly died. No dash lights, horn, nothing. Dead.
I checked the battery voltage. 12,76v. Dropped to 5.62v with key on and Relay buzzing.
The Main Relay in the fuse box was buzzing so I expected to change it out but the Honda service tech recommended I replace the 2 year old battery. ...and she started.

Not sure if the low battery was the cause of the wet start issue I was having earlier?

Thanks to all that respond to the topic.
The SH is running beautiful after 2 years and I recently recorded my highest gas mileage. 97MPG.

[Mikey]

Congratulations on figuring out your electrical problem! And an easy fix. My Suzuki DL650 has a similar problem on their forum. If the battery cables are not tight enough on the battery the bike will not start.

[TommyXP]

I noticed that after replacing the battery and super-torquing down the terminal screws: a couple weeks later one can easily get another ¾'s of a turn on both, and this time they stay 'there'.......

[robber57]

the battery poles are made of soft lead so when you tighten the nut the lead pole after a while the lead will slowly dent inwards and the nut will loosen itself.
Just like trying to bolt a piece of soft plastic down on a steel bar, you tighten the nut and 2 days later it is losse again because the plastic slowly flows away.

if you tighten the nut again the lead will be compressed again but lead will become harder and harder every time you squish it, so after 2-3 times tightening the nut the lead becomes harder and will stay.
by that time ussually you can see the deformation of the leadpole which is not a good thing and should be avoided as this deformation of the pole can lead to cracks in the plates inside the battery which will shorten the lifespan.
If you dont tighten the bolt to spec which is a quite loose torque you will squish the lead terminal of the battery.

battery connections should be checked annually and retightened to original spec torque every year or so.
replacing the original lead coated nut with a stainless lock-nut (nyloc type) prevents loosening a bit but getting a M5 locknut in the box shaped lead terminal is a pain and ussually there is no room left for a wrench to keep the nut while tightening.
A tricky "quick -and-dirty" solution is to squeeze the original yuasa nut in a vice so the M5 thread becomes tighter and will lock on the bolt, you may need several nuts to try before you get this right and squeeze it just the right amount.


The original yuasa nut and bolt are lead coated, the main reason for this lead coating is to prevent so called contact corrosion also called galvanic corrosion, a form of corrosion which occurs if you connect to pieces of different metal together, the electron charge of the two different metals is different causing an electron exchange between the two materials which is a form of corrosion, if you bolt two pieces of different metal together you are basically making a tiny battery where the moisture and salts in the air act as a electrolyte, the effect is very noticable on aluminium and stainless steel bolted together, these should only be connected together with plastic washers so the two materials are completely electrically isolated.
this is also the reason why you never should use stainless bolts in a aluminium swingarm or engine, the stainless will actually make the aluminium decay, you will save a bolt but lose the aluminium thread.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_ ... of_Liberty

So at least the original yuasa bolt should always be used and not replaced by stainless, only replace the nut and leave the original bolt.