SH125 Valve Clearance Check and Adjust - HELP!

[SH125Paul]

I have used the search function and read the resulting posts... HONEST!

I have a 2015 plate SH125i JF41eSP engined model and need to check and 'prolly adjust the valve clearances.
Long overdue at 30,000 miles... Just done the drive belt - second one ive done on the SH... and another oil change.

Got a workshop manual for the older 2010 150cc model... Thanks to the 'love' of this site.
Lists IN 0.16/ 0.006 and EX 0.25 / 0.010 along with the how and why with the timing marks...

Also got some detail for the PCX 125 eSP... Thanks to youtube...
Lists IN 0.10 / 0.004 and EX 0.24 / 0.009 the how and why with the timing involves having the radiator off the RHS...

If the lines on the cam sprocket are parallel with the casing... index groove (not the punch marks) on the cam with the index mark on the cylinder head...
On (or near?...) TDC on the Compression Stroke... If 'On the cam... Rotate counter clockwise, 180 on the cam / 360 on the crank etc...
As long as the rocker arm is loose and free is that not all that is required? Do i really need the Rad of and other timing marks?

What clearances do i need?
Is the PCX version of the eSP engine the same spec, cams etc. as the SH?
Anyone familiar with the latter model?
Don't want to take of more than i have to and risk damage to the Rad etc.
I've checked YouTube... All seem to be 2010 models, 150cc from the USofA or the PCX
Any help much apreciated...

[TommyXP]

I am only familiar with the SH150 and am mystified by the reference to the radiator and can't imagine what bearing it could have other than allowing access to some visual reference that is not entirely necessary in ALL cases?????
I would continue to look into it until I could fully understand a reason for it and what function it must serve before moving forward........
Re-read your sources and reconsider all the evidence.....
Will be interested to know how you overcome this strange hurdle......

[SH125Paul]

Cheers Tommy... I've dropped Honda UK a line, lets see if they would like to respond...
On the later model with the eSP engine variant the radiator is on the RHS with a fan on the end of the crank... Rather than the radiator being up front as normal... Timing marks are on the crank driven fan behind the rad...
Good Pic of the eSP engine here (from a PCX...) : https://www.google.com/search?client=ta ... 5c_wk2M%3A
Exploded diag showing the rad here: https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/55 ... d/radiator

[TommyXP]

Yikes! Now I see......IMHO that is the dumbest thing that I've seen Honda do lately, without having some kind of work-around......Surely a good incentive NOT to ever check the timing......

[SH125Paul]

For compleatness and the benefit of future search and members...
I have recieved some info from a fellow member on Maxi Muppets... (UK based scooter forum)
That was sent to him from Chiswick Honda...
Clearances are same, procedure same-ish save for pannels and access as the eSP engined PCX

IN: 0.10 ± 0.02 mm (0.004 ± 0.001 in)　
EX: 0.24 ± 0.02 mm (0.009 ± 0.001 in)

Had the same confirmed by e-mail following an enquiry to Honda UK Customer Services...

[TommyXP]

Thanks for sharing.....With 30k miles, how did yours check-out?

[SH125Paul]

Not been in there yet!...
It's on the 'To Do' List...
Scoot starts fine, sounds alright on tick over and runs fine..
Scoot got a new belt at 30k Miles (previous one at 15k Miles)
And an Oil Change for good behaviour...

[breaknwind]

Try this. Remove the transmission filter cover and the spark plug. Use a socket and breaker bar or ratchet to turn the crank the same direction as the wheels turn when rolling forward(counter clockwise). Get a clean chopstick and put in the spark plug hole. Turn the crank until the intake valve depresses and when the chopstick starts to move out it's on the compression stroke. When the chopstick stops moving out, it's at TDC. Now you can check the valve clearance. Be careful not to over tighten the valve cover bolts. I think the manual say's 9 ft. lb. but I think it's 7. I'm pretty sure Tommy has had this problem.

[SH125Paul]

Nice...
Thanks for that... There is also a notch on the cam to help
Previously, with geared bikes, you could put em in gear, spark plug out, screwdriver down the bore... rotate the rear wheel, screwdriver rises, and stop! just as it starts to fall - TDC...
I'll go with a chopstick less damaging than a screwdriver...
If it doesnt work out, then i'll have the rad off...

Weather was too nice today... So the new NC750X DCT got an outing!

[TommyXP]

Thanks for the reminder of my nightmare BreaknWind, of breaking the valve cover bolt threads off INSIDE the crankcase, on a beautiful and balmy Spring day....It ingrained the habit in me to always turn the torque wrench handle around and make sure I am reading the in/lb scale and NOT the meter!
Also, personally, I'd throw an Iridium spark-plug back in there while the other is out......