New member from SE Michigan

[313Matt]

Hi everybody. I bought a 2010 SH150i Saturday.

Titled and insured today, and then rode it to work this afternoon.

Glad to be here.

[TommyXP]

Welcome to the Forum neighbor.
Tell us about the the SH you found as I seldom see them listed for sale.
Enjoy yourself and the Season......

[313Matt]

I found it on Craigslist about a month ago. It took me a little while to have an agreement* with my significant other on another motorcycle, so luckily it was still for sale when said agreement was struck.

Apparently he bought it back in August from someone "up north" who had driven it unlicensed and was worried about getting caught. It has 4400 miles on it and while it's clear that it has been driven on dirt roads, it seems to be in good working order.

I'll be doing a valve adjustment on it. (Is there a link to the valve specs somewhere here?) The prior owner changed the oil and final drive gear oil (and it appears he did.) Is there anything else I need to do?

Glad to find you guys!

Matt in Dearborn

* The agreement was that I would sell my Beemer R850 R. So if you want a nice, low mileage (fuel injected!) BMW, I have one for you! http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/mcy/5785068962.html

[313Matt]

Oh, and thanks for the tip on the Iridium spark plug!!! I bought that in a heartbeat.

I have an old Yamaha XS650 and there are dyno reports available that show a ~2hp/5% increase. It's the cheapest plug-in hp increase I have ever seen. Not sure the SH will get a similar % increase, but for the money ($8.31 shipped from Amazon) it's an easy thing to do. (Err, I think it's easy. I haven't found the spark plug yet.)

Matt

[TommyXP]

Thumbs up on the Iridium spark plug and I take it you are not yet in possession of the "Factory Service Manual" yet, which are usually available on e-bay. IMO it is essential when truly 'owning' this bike. Though I have yet to have a serious issue in ~35,000 miles; it is the most well-used book in my vast library.

In regards to adj. the valves: do you just need the 'specs' or a 'walk-through' on the entire procedure?
I did a quick "Search" and found this old post and there are many more.
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=1353&p=3403&hilit= ... lves#p3403

If this does not suffice I will type-out the whole procedure for you when I have more time. There is not a lot to it BUT the well illustrated photo's and diagrams in the "Factory Service Manual" do inspire one with confidence and surety.
Note: Highly recommend using a good torque-wrench or two (inch/pounds + foot/pounds) when working on the bike; especially on the valve cover.

Between 2 SH's and all the many miles, I have made a few valve checks and have only had to make 1 adjustment of .001 just to perform the procedure and center the tight tolerance!

[313Matt]

Yeah, the manual is something that's on the list. There was one on ebay yesterday, but I got involved in other things and I missed it. I can always Amazon it if need be.

That description you linked is enough. Between multiple vintage bikes, and the BMW I have done a valve adjustment or two in my time. Looks like the hardest part is the bodywork, which is somewhat new for me.

Yeah, got a little torque wrench, so I am all set there.

Thanks again.

[TommyXP]

If I remember correctly.....You only need to remove the access panel that your feet rest upon (2 screws under seat-that I no longer bother to re-install).
Getting at and removing the 2 small bolts that hold the belt-case air cleaner (to be able to rotate the crank after removing the spark plug) is the S.O.B. that gets easier with practice. At first glance it appears near impossible. You need small metric ignition wrench's (actually one) and I find "combo" the best (one end box the other open) and the patience of a Saint with a pair of looong needle-nose pliers to re=install.
The timing-hole cap is just above the oil dipstick. When you line it up to the mark, and come back around to the left side of the bike, you will see a numeral "1" stamped on the top of the cam sprocket with a "2" at the bottom perfectly parallel with the block head. If not; make it so by rotating the timing mark for TDC.
IMO getting used to removing the belt case air filter is the hardest part. Start now saving up all the cuss-words you can imagine.......
There IS a sequence that must be followed to remove the plastics to get at other components when necessary and that is where the Service Manual (I don't think you can ever get it on Amazon) shines....
I am always amazed that; no matter how many times you take off and put it back together, the seemingly fragile plastic always lines up and 'fits' back together.....

[313Matt]

Thanks for the explanation. It will help.

The manual is on Amazon, but for $50. I went with a used one from ebay that was $30 shipped. It arrives Monday. I'll probably wait until then as from what I have read here that while Honda says the valves need to be checked, they reality is that they rarely need adjustment.

Matt