Rebuild sh150i driven pulley

[seanstr26m]

Has anyone done a rebuild of the driven pulley? If so why did you do it?

I can't find all the tools.

I was wondering just how complicated this is?

Did you do what the manual stated?

Can you get by with just lubricating the parts without disassembling the drive pulley?

[TommyXP]

Me No Know.......

[seanstr26m]

That's OK. I'm figuring this out. I'll be the expert. Lol

[robber57]

The grease inside dries out and vanishes, an irratic behaving torquedriver is a sign, this can/may cause a slipping belt, belt slap (excessive) and slow reacting vario, an example: youre doing 40 mph and want to overtake one of these slow moving metal boxes in front of you, you apply full throttle and make the move but the engine stays in the same gearing for a little time before it revs up so now youre trying to overtake at 3000 rpm and the (absent) engine torque has to do the acceleration, the vario will rev up but it takes a long time.
On deceleration you may notice that there is hardly any engine brake because the vario doesnt shift down and the bike keeps "coasting" for a long time.

You need a vario compression tool from honda or Buzetti or a second set of hands to help you and a socket wrench 39 mm which may be difficult to locate, the original honda tool and wrench appears to be made of a mixture of gold,diamonds and platinum if you look at the price.
Buzetti tools can be found online or at a local (moped) scootershop, the brands has a lot of tools for 50cc mopeds but also a side stand for the sh and lots of oother interesting tools like compression/vacuum meters etc, you will need the catalogue from the site to determine the tool partnumber, quality is fair given the price paid, my side stand lasted 6 years of daily abuse (including turning the whole bike around while balancing it on the sidestand) before it broke.
If you unscrew the big 39 mm nut you must be carefull and either have the compression tool or a extra set of hands to prevent that the spring will hit you in the face, be carefull, it is not all that powerfull but enough to break your nose or worse..

Inside the torque driver should be nlg3 grease which is very thick and sticky, if you cant get it nlg2 (normal bearing grease will also do the trick with additional risk that it will fly out.
Stick masking tape on your clutch shoes the moment you open it up to prevent fouling up the shoes with your sticky hands.

On mounting you have to compress the spring completly so the nut will screw (or unscrew) most of the part without the spring pressing against it otherwise you ruin the threads in the (soft steel) nut, having a spare nut may be advisable before you start.
Lubricate the threads with one drop of oil.(to much will end up on your clutch) and spray clean with aerosol brakecleaner the threads and nut.
Oh, and use a torque wrench for the nut ( or any other transmission part) , you dont want this coming apart on the highway....