Unknown Oil Leak SH 125i

[robber57]

If you give me a pm i will upload something to help you tonight.
Btw:15 kmiles should be no problem so i suggest to make sure it is the pump seal as it is quite the job to replace it.
If it is the seal it shows you the imortance of cleaning the underside of the bike, if dirt builds up around the spil hole it will eventualy end up inside the hole eating the pumpseal.

[SH125Paul]

What year is ya SH125?
Haines do a manual for the SH and variants up to 2009...

[SH125i]

All,

Thanks for your replies!

I have discovered slightly further, and it doesn't look like the water pump seal has gone -
If you have a look in the pictures I posted earlier, there is a bolt just above the drain plug, to the right.
A lot of oil was around this bolt and so I loosened it slightly, and more oil suddenly started to leak, so I believe this is the root of the leak, but I haven't got a clue why its coming from there!
I've had a look at the diagram, attached, I believe it is no. 19 in the diagram and it just looks like a crankcase cover bolt.

Your inputs are very gratefully received!

Thank you

[SH125i]

Update!
The bolt I was talking about - no. 19 in the diagram was the culprit!
I realised this when I tried to tighten the bolt back up and it wouldn't tighten, because the thread inside had been f*****... no idea how the previous owner had managed to do this.
I went down to my garage to double check and they said it was, they've put some heat resistant glue/silicone type stuff In and around the bolt and it's stopped leaking!
He said either he does that or id have to get another engine because the thread can't be fixed because it's one of those bolts that go through the engine crankcase!

Anyway, result for now!

Thanks for all your inputs.

[TommyXP]

Good for you; in a manner of speaking. The best outcome in the given situation where we can 'practice' to except a little 'bad' in order to get a little closer to the 'good' in Life and not dwell upon it.
I'm glad you were able to avoid all the added labor and expense.

I am a slow, reluctant 'learner' but notice that even when I change the oil now, I'll take a few extra moments to break-out a torque-wrench (that I wrap, carefully oil and store like a precious instrument!) just to snug-up the oil drain plug.
Being an 'old-timer' brought-up on cast-iron and steel, it is difficult to get-a-sense of working with aluminum to 'stick'. I just don't do this 'stuff' often enough to develop a new/different 'feel'.
Maybe I should soak my wrists in WD-40 in hopes that I become a little more 'limp-wristed' like so many of the 'special-snowflakes'/safe-placers' of the coming generations? Times they are a changin'.....

I have now 'busted' 2 bolts IN aluminum over the years and could probably use a little therapy to get over the sick sensation one feels when this occurs. Big-time PTSD!
One was on the valve cover long ago and most recently one was on the belt cover housing; even though I was using a torque wrench!
On the latter, the 5 bolts called for 7 ft/lbs.....I have 2 torque wrenches; one is ft/lbs for the bigger stuff and one is in/lbs for the smaller......The call for 7 ft/lbs put it near the lower extreme of the larger wrench. Being the delicate genius that I am, I had to simply convert 7 ft/lbs to inch/pounds in order to put the specification within a 'meaty' portion of a wrench......
In my thoughtless wisdom I multiplied "7" by 16 (lb) rather than 12 (in).
The difference between 84 in/lbs and 112 in/lbs isn't that great and 4 of the 5 bolts 'took' it, but not the final one. Woe be me.

Though I discovered MY mistake, I am getting "gun-shy" about tightening anything anymore and am considering converting everything over into tie-wraps!