15000 service

Discuss the SH- the one in your garage or at the dealer showroom
stonerolled
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15000 service

Post by stonerolled » Mon Aug 20, 2018 10:05 am

I am trying to order parts for the 15000 service to avoid down time.
In addition to the belt and rollers, what other parts are best replaced while you are in there?

Should the rubber inserts be replaced?

Thanks for any suggestions.

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TommyXP
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Re: 15000 service

Post by TommyXP » Mon Aug 20, 2018 11:21 am

Other than cleaning the faces of the pulleys and other pcs.
Never needed to replace the plastic inserts yet.
I remember also blowing out the clutch housing with compressed air and applying a few dabs of glue around the main gasket housing, as it was a real pain before I permanently removed the left passenger footrest.....
Freedom is not something you are given. Its something you take.

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luxroller
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Re: 15000 service

Post by luxroller » Mon Aug 20, 2018 1:35 pm

My belt, rollers and especially the "plastic inserts" were as new when i recently replaced them at 36000 km/22000miles.
Easy job, but i made the mistake and did not streched the front "pulli"(?) enough so after a 100 miles after the replacement the sh left me for the first time on the road.... :evil: my fault :mrgreen: I was lucky and no parts were damaged but could have been very possible.....
The pulli should be streched very very...really tight !!!
Thats the only thing by my knowledge you should take care of !!!! And no other parts are needed. On youtube you will find some usefull videos, but they just dont telll you to streche that damded pulli like a mule. ;)
Toni

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TommyXP
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Re: 15000 service

Post by TommyXP » Mon Aug 20, 2018 1:59 pm

Is "streche" Euro-eeze for the 44 lbf-ft of torque to be applied to the drive pulley nut?
Just wondering as maybe I forgot to do something critical......
Freedom is not something you are given. Its something you take.

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luxroller
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Re: 15000 service

Post by luxroller » Tue Aug 21, 2018 1:22 am

Is "streche" Euro-eeze for the 44 lbf-ft of torque to be applied to the drive pulley nut?
Yes :lol:

I have never used a torque wrench in my life and never ruined any bolts nuts or screws and never lost any pieces but on this drive pulley nut i should have used one :oops:
Although i had put all my musclepower on it the nut was completely off after a 100 km and the scooter did not move anymore but made a terrible metallic noise. Fortunately nothing was damaged :P
Anton

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breaknwind
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Re: 15000 service

Post by breaknwind » Tue Aug 21, 2018 3:21 am

stonerolled wrote:I am trying to order parts for the 15000 service to avoid down time.
In addition to the belt and rollers, what other parts are best replaced while you are in there?

Should the rubber inserts be replaced?

Thanks for any suggestions.
You should replace all the plastic parts (rollers and ramp plate sliders)together. The ramp plate sliders might look good but you don't want any slop in the ramp plate. When you tighten the front pulleys , you need to grab the belt close to the rear pulleys and squeeze hard to create slop in the belt. Then you pinch the belt near the front pulleys to make the belt round near the shaft. This will allow you to seat the front pulley on the shaft shoulder. This prevents tightening the belt between the pulleys and the outer pulley coming off while riding.
Now would be a good time to send the rear pulleys/clutch to SHS to have the seals/O-rings/retainer cup and bearings replaced. You should have seen mine at 23.000. Should be about $150, unless you have the ability to make the tools needed like me. I ride 40% WOT, if you don't, the rear pulleys/clutch should make it to 30,000 before this is needed.

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TommyXP
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Re: 15000 service

Post by TommyXP » Tue Aug 21, 2018 6:33 am

I sit here amazed with wonder...Initially, I 'thought' this was going to be a one of the shortest threaded posts and ended up having to change my 'assumed' Reality because of the gracious sharing of the experiences of others.

I never considered what the plastic/rubber inserts function was really for and as they sit/fit into the grooves so nicely anyways, I allowed a brand new set to remain at the bottom of my spare/new parts box all this while, when its probably the cheapest replacement part I'll ever purchase....I'll be certain to look more closely at their real function next time soon I change the rollers again, in light of what has been said here and follow the mfg. recommendation in the Service Manual that we all SHOULD have by now and is easily freely available but to ask.

Also, I didn't consider creating some slop in the belt by forcing the new belt deeper into the rear clutch and merely worked the belt over the shaft and put the pulley on whilst 'ASSuming' the tightening of the pulley nut would FORCE the belt to its proper position (which it probably does, as I got away with it twice).

For my first 60 laps around the Sun, I too never used a torque wrench either, but for the last 10 years I forced the stone-age man in me to use it on practically everything aluminum as some of these 'modern' fasteners will have 2 different "tempers" on a single fastener (one for the threads and a different for the shank) as I so fatally learned when initially mis-tightening the LONG bolts that secure the valve cover and having to deal with the absolute nightmare of shearing the threads FLUSH with the surface of the cylinder head!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Clear the schedule mama; I be fiddle-f*cking around with this self-created horror into the NOW most indefinite Future, while trying to avoid having to tear the entire engine apart.....

Since then, two torque wrenches (big/small) are wrapped and cradled in a special drawer of the tool chest(s), more coddled than some of the more expensive 'meters' as if they were made out of the worlds finest crystal, in vain hopes that the god's of all mechanics will continue to show me mercy for my many sins and not again force me to wander the paths of hell because of my foolishness and disregard for Them, by trying to rely on MY own sense of the particular god of Torque.....Pray for me peoples; I've been to Hell and back
I'm shortly coming up on my 3rd belt change and am now looking forward to it. It'll be like the 'first time' all over again in a new light; just like 'make-up' sex!

P.S......BreaknWind uses and is referring to Sliders (a custom modification) and/or the Stock rollers that us old-folks-in-the-slow-lane-out-for-a-Sunday-ride are most happy to continue to use, as he whips past us with tears of pure adrenaline filling his eyes and obscuring the sight of the morning Sun shining through the ears of the rabbits and the butterflies delicate landing habits......
Freedom is not something you are given. Its something you take.

stonerolled
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Re: 15000 service

Post by stonerolled » Tue Aug 21, 2018 2:52 pm

Thanks....will also replace the 'ramp plate sliders' and try to have the pulley and belt in the proper grooves and shoulders before tightening.
Also, is SHS a honda scooter service? The internet doesn't seem to recognize it.

never knew there was so much engineering in such an inexpensive vehicle. Now I know why the belt doesn't drive the rear wheel directly, the clutch is there is one reason.

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TommyXP
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Re: 15000 service

Post by TommyXP » Tue Aug 21, 2018 3:55 pm

I do not know as I was planning on doing it all, somehow, myself.............
I would consider having done IF it is economical....
Freedom is not something you are given. Its something you take.

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breaknwind
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Re: 15000 service

Post by breaknwind » Wed Aug 22, 2018 9:06 am

stonerolled wrote:Thanks....will also replace the 'ramp plate sliders' and try to have the pulley and belt in the proper grooves and shoulders before tightening.
Also, is SHS a honda scooter service? The internet doesn't seem to recognize it.

never knew there was so much engineering in such an inexpensive vehicle. Now I know why the belt doesn't drive the rear wheel directly, the clutch is there is one reason.
Here ya go.
https://shspowersports.com/

First thing, use the variator tool to remove the clutch bell. Check inside it to see if there is grease in it ,if not, your seals are good. Mine had a bad judder on accelerating from a stop at 22,000 miles. Thought it was the clutch but it was the rear pulley bearings and seals.

(1)COLLAR, SEAL
23237-KGF-910

(1)BEARING, NEEDLE (22X29X18)
91002-KFG-003

(1)BEARING, RADIAL BALL (6902U) (FUJIKOSHI)
91002-GA7-701

(2) SEAL, DRIVEN FACE (34X41X4)
91211-KN7-671

(2) O-RING (38.8X1.9)
91384-KRJ-901
These are the parts I replaced. I was able to make a spring compressor and I bought a socket. SHS should charge 1 hour labor to do this for you. I had them replace the water pump seals for me and they did a damn good job.

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