Electrical problem, battery not re-charging.

[TommyXP]

Don't know....Does it have anything to do with how the scooter is 'supported'?

[Elvis]

OK, I went back to the bike, tried again and I was able to just BARELY slip the Right Crankcase Cover out of the engine.

The Stator is bolted to the inside of the Right Crankcase Cover. Once I could see the Stator, it was plain that it was my problem; one of the coils was burnt.

Do I need a new gasket or can I use a silicone gasket compound?

[TommyXP]

Don't know.....Considering the trouble though, I'd wait and get the proper gasket maybe.....

[Mikey]

I'm interested how did you know it was the stator? Looks like it is pretty expensive too!

[SH125Paul]

A bit of the frame? - Rear Foot Rest and Bracket?
I remember reading in a post some time back - Think it was Tommy on a Belt Changing Thread...
Removing a Rear Foot Rest Bracket can help on the removal of a casing... 2x bolts I think - could it be that?...
Seem to remember that Tommy seldom takes a pillion, and decided to leave the rear foot rest / bracket assembly off - for easy casing removal for future variator and belt access...

[TommyXP]

The left passenger footrest remains removed on both my SH's mainly for easy access to the 2 bolts that allow access to the belt air filter but also makes it easier when reinstalling the left cover with that darn gasket.
I don't know or have any experience with the right cover (yet)........

[Elvis]

Responding to a few posts, and some new info:

I knew it was the problem was the Stator because when I took off the Right Crankcase Cover (the Stator is attached to it) one of the windings was charred black. Apparently a short circuit of some sort cooked it.

A big part of the clearance problem with removing the Right Crankcase Cover was because the three stiff hoses that attach to the water pump were getting in the way. I had already removed the right side passenger footrest, muffler, side cover, seat, baggage compartment, rear handle, and battery cover. I finally got smart and found a place to park two of them behind frame members, and used a short bungee cord to move the third out of the way. Made things a lot easier.

Now for the new issue: After I put it all back together, with new oil and coolant, it started right up, had plenty of voltage at the battery (14 volts), and seemed fine. But the engine immediately started running hot, as the gauge climbed quickly.

I felt the radiator, and it was cool. Apperently no hot coolant was making it to the radiator. So I may have done something wrong with the water pump. I'll investigate that next.

[TommyXP]

Sounds like you need to 'bleed' the air from the system.......
Good info and thanks for sharing.

[Mikey]

The service manual said air bleed bolt, fill the recommended coolant from the filler next until the coolant starts flowing from the air bleed bolt hole. It looks like it is on the left side of the valve cover. The top bolt on the thermostat cover.

[Elvis]

Tommy XP and Mikey, you guys nailed it!

I was following the instructions in the Honda Service Manual for replacing the coolant (on pages 6-8 and 6-9), and it doesn't even mention bleeding air from the thermostat!

You guys saved the day, thank you so much!

Once I bled that air, it began running just fine.

While I have your attention on the thermostat, does anyone know how to remove the white plastic electrical connector from the end of the thermostat? I had wanted to do that to make it easier to remove the Stator wire/connector, but couldn't figure it out.

Thanks again!