How To Remove the Rear Wheel and Replace the Rear Tire

[Elvis]

Dear Fellow SHcooter Enthusiasts,

I changed my rear tire yesterday, for the second time (now on my third). I installed a Michelin City Grip, 120/80-16, SKU # 483860, from MotorcycleSuperstore.com.

Below are my very detailed notes, updated from the last time I did this 3 years ago.

They are written to my future self, for the next wheel change, and have a bit of 'home cooking', but you are all smart boys and girls so you'll figure that out.

I hope they help you get through your own tire change with minimal time and effort.

Happy SHcooting!


How to Remove the Rear Wheel and Change the Tire on a 2010 SH150i:

Tools needed:
1. Metric sockets in 10, 12, 14mm, 3/8” drive, with 3/8” ratchet and a 6” extension.
2. Ryobi cordless impact driver, with 3/8” square drive bit. (optional but handy and fun to use)
3. 10mm flex-head ratcheting box wrench. (I have a Husky brand, from Home Depot)
4. 24mm socket, ½” drive, ratchet.
5. Two #2 Phillips screwdrivers; a short / stubby, and a regular length one.
6. Rubber / plastic tipped mallet, for gentle persuasion.
7. A small (less than 1/8”) flat bladed screwdriver.
8. Ice cube tray or egg crate, for holding small parts as they are removed.
9. Milk crates to sit on. Ideally 2, one on each side of the bike.
10. Bungee cord, about 18” long.
11. Rim protectors. (Motion Pro Rim Protectors, from Motorcycle Superstore, SKU# 268744, $7.61 plus shipping, free if the order is over $89)
12. Windex or generic equivalent window cleaner.
13. Tire irons (I already had a pair.) Harbor Freight sells some good ones, cheap. (Item #93230 or 61603)
14. Torque wrench.
15. Wheel balancer, stick-on weights.

Parts needed:
1. New tire, (I used a Michelin City Grip, 120/80-16, SKU # 483860, from the Motorcycle Superstore.com, $68.99, free shipping if the order is over $89.)
2. Exhaust pipe gasket, Honda part # 18291-KPZ-900, $0.86 from Partzilla.com, but shipping was $6.95, so get a few or other small parts at the same time, like the oil change plug gasket.
3. Thread locking compound. (I used Permanex Red Gel.)
4. Phosphoric acid, to treat any rust spots, if needed.

Here’s the procedure:
Place the scooter on a hard surface. If it’s on grass / ground, the kickstand may sink into the earth, making it difficult to remove the rear wheel.

1. Unlock and lift the seat, then use the regular length Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws facing upwards on either side of the seat hinge; they hold the front cover piece in place.
lose the seat, then push down and out on the top flat part of the cover and pull it away. (You’ll notice that the starter battery lives underneath that cover. If needed, now is a good time to clean the terminals, using a baking-soda-in-water solution and a toothbrush or acid brush. Then spray the terminals with WD-40, or other such protective spray.)
Notice that with the front cover removed you can also see and access the nuts that hold the exhaust pipe to the cylinder head.

2. Go to the left rear of the bike, and remove the Phillips head screw that holds the short plastic rear fender in place (above the rear tire). You might need to use a short / stubby #2 Phillips screwdriver. Notice how the tab from the fender goes on top of the other tab, just underneath the screw. Make sure it goes back that way when you reassemble.

3. On the right rear, use a 10mm socket to remove the two bolts that hold the same short plastic fender from #2 above. Remove and set aside the fender.

4. Above the front part of the muffler is a black boomerang-shaped plastic piece that covers the Oxygen sensor; remove the two 10mm bolts (the Ryobi cordless impact driver worked well for this), then unplug the wiring connector, which is not easy to do. First, unclip the connector from the boomerang, then disconnect the two halves. I ended up using a small, flat-bladed screwdriver as a prying tool. Notice how there are three separate locking teeth. Try the one that has a tab behind it.

[ A suggestion from SeanMPuckett of SHcooter forum: The electrical connector has a small metal loop that catches on a protrusion on the mating part. You need to use something to gently lift that loop so the connector can come apart. It can be done with a fingernail or sliver of wood or a little screwdriver. Almost seems like it would take three hands but just go slow. ]


5. Using the 10mm flex-head ratcheting box wrench, remove the exhaust pipe nuts which connect the exhaust pipe to the cylinder head.

6. Remove the three muffler mounting bolts, 14mm. Note that there are two in front, and one at the rear and under. I was able to break them loose with the 14mm socket on a 6” extension with the 3/8” ratchet. Note that the bolt at the lower rear is shorter than the two at the front. Also note that the muffler will want to fall once you remove those bolts, so it’s a good idea to use a bungee cord from the muffler to the seat handles to hold it in place until you’re ready to lower it with both hands. It should just about fall away, maybe some slight angling is necessary.
With the exhaust system removed, notice that the gasket at the cylinder head can be replaced, which is a good idea. It is Honda part number: 18291-KPZ-900. I’m not sure how to get the old one out. (I did not change it on 4FEB2017, left in the old one.)
< When putting back the exhaust system, hang it on the bungee cord, and sit on the right side, using your right hand to guide the exhaust pipe onto the two exhaust port studs, then slide in the top front muffler bolt and get it started a few threads. >

7. Now to remove the big 24mm rear axle nut. The easiest way to do that is to place the 24mm socket and ratchet on the nut (with the ratchet horizontal), then take the bike off the kickstand, so both tires are on the work surface, then hold both brakes while you step on the end of the ratchet, to loosen the nut. Repeat as needed, then you can put the bike back up on the kickstand and remove the axle nut.

8. On the right side, just above the axle, is the shock absorber bolt. Remove the bolt, 12mm, then use a bungee cord to hold the shock up and away, to make clearance for the eventual wheel removal.

[Another suggestion from SeanMPuckett of SHcooter forum: When reattaching the shock absorber assembly to the swing arm be very careful about your torque -- it's super easy to tear out the cut threads on the shock bracket. Even if you're using a torque wrench set to the factory recommended torque. :} Fortunately the OEM bolt is long enough that you can supplement with an off-the-shelf metric nylock nut and you're still safe. ]

9. Still on the right side, remove the two 14mm swing arm bolts (it looks more like a triangle than an arm), then slide off the swing arm, straight away laterally. *Don’t lose the axle bushing at the rear; it should stay in the swing arm.

10. Now you can remove the rear wheel, by pulling it laterally. It helps to wiggle it a little to remove it. Use the rubber mallet to persuade it gently as needed. I saw the splines had developed some surface rust.
< When putting the rear wheel back on, lubricate the splines (I used a little DuPont Teflon Chain Lube) very carefully, so you don’t get any lubricant on the brake shoes.>

With the rear wheel off, inspect the brake shoes. Replace them as needed.

Installation is the reverse of these steps. Remember to tighten the axle nut before you put the exhaust system back on, or you’ll have wrench clearance difficulties.

It’s a good idea to use a thread locking compound, replace that exhaust gasket, and torque the fasteners to the specifications.

Now for the tire change.
I found a good YouTube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQZM402U2x4

The key points in changing the tire are:

1. Lay a piece of clean plywood or cardboard on the ground, in the shade, to work on. This is mostly a hands-and-knees operation.

2. Make sure you use Windex or a similar generic window cleaner to lubricate the tire as you work it off and then back onto the rim. That makes it soooo much easier! (But some websites say soap is corrosive to aluminum. I don’t know if Windex is corrosive or not. Perhaps try STP Son of a Gun, or Dawn dishwashing liquid dissolved in water.)

3. I used my Craftsman wooden woodworker’s clamps, the ones with 2 screws, to break the bead. Here's another technique: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qaom3dHtVNU

4. Make sure you use rim protectors, as in the video. It would be great to have three to use.

5. The long Harbor Freight tire irons are great! (Item #93230 or 61603) Use a short 2x4 wood block for leverage.

6. Note any painted dot on the tire, which indicates the lightest place on the tire. That should be aligned with the valve stem.

7. Note the directional arrow on the tire. It rotates in a specific direction, is not reversible.

8. Balance the tire. Plenty of YouTube videos show how to do that.

Use the air compressor to fill up the tire and seat the bead. Leave the valve stem in, as the air chuck didn’t seem to flow air without it. Again, use plenty of lube. ***Be careful to NOT have a finger between the tire and the rim as you fill it up! The tire pops into the bead loud and strong. It took 60 psi to seat the tire on 4FEB2017, then I bled off the excess.

It feels great to ride on new tires!

[stonerolled]

I made it as far as the oxygen sensor connector. i will be making an appointment with our local friendly honda dealer. trying to unscrew the sensor itself didnt work either. Glad you guys can get further.

[TommyXP]

No need to unscrew the sensor........merely dis-connect.

[stonerolled]

I tried to pull that thing apart for 20 minutes, I may have broken it.

[TommyXP]

Take your time and be patient. I remember it being difficult too. Look at closely and see where to 'squeeze'...
Get a dull big needle or something and work it around.....Squirt some lube down the wires....Be creative in the face of adversity....I always apply silicone grease to everyone of these connectors after the first terrible time.

[stonerolled]

thanks, might get out the magnifying glass and grease and give it one more shot.

[TommyXP]

Good Luck....Take your time.

[stonerolled]

Got it done, thanks for the encouragement. No rust on the rear axle.

[TommyXP]

Good to hear and I hope the rest of your project goes smoothlier......

[stonerolled]

The rear wheel hub splines definitely needed some grease with rust apparent. Many more smoothlier miles desired.
Next service, belt replacement and whatever else while your down there. Rollers, variator, rear oil change, etc.